Whether you’re looking at an existing bridal style or a fully custom-designed wedding dress, understanding technical design terms and their differences will help you better describe what you want to wear on your wedding day. In this blog, we break down the anatomy of a dress to help you understand the different design elements of Edith Élan bridalwear—from necklines to skirt shapes.
For easier understanding, we break down the anatomy of a dress into sections based on the design elements: necklines, sleeves, waistlines, and skirt shapes. As a bonus, we also include pant styles for bridal jumpsuits.
Within each section, we show you examples of the design elements from our bridal collections and archives. We also include helpful design tips throughout the blog based on our years of experience in fashion and bridal.
Anatomy of a Dress: The Neckline
Starting at the top of a bridal design’s anatomy, necklines fall into two general categories: strapless or with straps. Strapless necklines have no fabric covering the shoulders and require a corset structure to support the bodice. Necklines with straps have some amount of material on the shoulders. But within those two categories, necklines can take a variety of shapes. Below, we’ll show you common neckline styles you’ll see in Edith Élan designs.
Design Tip: If you’ve never worn a garment without a strap or high neckline, you may feel too exposed in a strapless neckline.
The Sweetheart Neckline
Sweetheart necklines are one of the most traditional neckline shapes. The heart-shaped neckline is a good compromise between modesty and sexiness. Sweetheart necklines don’t dip too low, thus nearlyweds feel comfortable without feeling too exposed—especially if they don’t desire to highlight their décolletage. Additionally, the rounded shape of the neckline gives the design a softness and sweetness to the overall look.
The Cat-Eye Neckline
The cat-eye neckline is the modern alternative to the more traditional sweetheart neckline. Cat-eye necklines are more architectural with their angular shape. Where sweetheart necklines have a romantic appeal, cat-eye necklines are for the nearlywed looking for a modern edge in their bridalwear.
Design Tip: Detachable off-the-shoulder straps are not only an easy way to transform a strapless cat-eye neckline, but also to create a two-in-one wedding dress look.
The Scoop Neckline
As the name implies, scoop necklines subtly scoop down in the center. For designs with straps, the scoop creates a beautiful curve where the neckline transitions to the straps. In strapless designs, like in our Amaryllis style, a scoop neckline is a happy medium between a fashion-forward cat-eye neckline and a traditional sweetheart.
The Straight Neckline
Straight, strapless necklines were a popular choice for nearlyweds in the late ’90s and early ’00s. For today’s nearlyweds, it’s a clean look with a bit of a modern-vintage vibe.
Design Tip: A straight neckline with straps creates the square neckline, which is a neckline that was popular throughout the 90s.
The Deep-V Neckline
A deep-V neckline is one of the ultimate levels of élan. But it’s not for everyone. Whether it’s a strapless design or a design with sleeves, the depth of the V can vary from several inches below the bust to the waist. Illusion tulle can be added to the center to keep the bodice from opening and revealing things you don’t want revealed. The tulle can also serve as a foundation for embellishments, like with our Mariposa style. Confidence is key for this neckline to work—especially if bust size is of no concern!
The V Neckline (Including The Surplice Neckline)
Like the sweetheart neckline, the V neckline is a common choice in bridalwear for styles with straps. Unlike the very sexy deep-V neckline, a regular V neckline does not dip below the fullest part of the bust.
Design Tip: The surplice neckline is a variation of the V neckline. You will also see it called a faux wrap, crossover front, or mock wrap. While this neckline appears like a wrap top, there is no risk of the garment coming undone.
The Notch Neckline
A notch neckline is what would happen if a straight or cat-eye neckline and a V-neckline had a baby. This neckline has a more demure dip in the center. In a way, it is also a modern update to the sweetheart neckline with its sharp angles.
The Halter Neckline
A halter neckline is one of those necklines that you either like or you don’t. It’s a sexy neckline because it is often paired with a more revealing back. This pairing in a halter creates visual balance between the covered front and open back.
Design Tip: If you have sensory issues with fabric sitting closely around your neck, this isn’t the neckline for you. Additionally, you can get the look of a halter neckline from the front and keep an open back without needing the straps to circle your neck, like with our Joan ballgown.
The Illusion Neckline
An illusion neckline is a strapless bodice paired with a higher tulle neckline. This neckline style is for the nearlywed who wants the look of a strapless bodice with the peace of mind of coverage—without being covered by a solid fabric.
Design Tip: Illusion tulle should disappear against your skin unless it is intentionally designed to contrast, like with our Rei style. Not all bridal designers offer the ability to customize the color of the illusion tulle to match you, but we do!
The Bateau Neckline
A bateau neckline (or boat neck) is a high neckline with a wide-scooped opening in a sheer or solid fabric. If modesty is your goal, this is a good option when paired with a high back. Like halter necklines, you often (not always) see bateau necklines with more open backs to create a visual balance, especially in a solid fabric.
Anatomy of a Dress: Sleeves
While our designer, Lourdes, explains a variety of sleeve shapes more in-depth in this article for The Knot, here is a quick guide to Edith Élan’s most popular sleeve styles.
Design Tip: Determining whether you want sleeves is a choice only you can make. It is absolutely not dependent on the size tag! You either want to show your arms or you don’t. In either case, that is okay! That is why there are sleeve options.
Fitted Long Sleeves
Fitted long sleeves are pretty self-explanatory: fitted and long. Nearlyweds who choose fitted long sleeves often do it to fulfill religious modesty requirements or for personal desire. However, this simple sleeve design does not mean you need to sacrifice on style. They can serve as the ground for many embellishments, or they can be made of lace.
Bishop Sleeves
Bishop sleeves are fitted at the shoulder, have volume near the bottom, and gather at the wrist. These sleeves can be made in any fabric, but the fabric’s weight will determine the sleeve’s poofiness or drapiness. Our Milly dress features voluminous sleeves in drapey crepe, whereas our Gene dress showcases a lighter, lacier take on the sleeve.
Puff Sleeves
Puff sleeves are often made of a sheer or lightweight fabric with gathered volume at the top and bottom. They can be a single puff or a double puff, like our Harlow style, for added drama. The position of the gathered cuff can be moved up or down the arm to increase or decrease the sleeve’s poofiness.
Flutter Sleeves
Flutter sleeves are short, loose-fitting sleeves that flare from the shoulder. A lighter-weight fabric (like tulle, Swiss dot net, or pearl net) makes it easier for them to “flutter” as you move. Thereby, making them a fun and even flirty addition to a bridal design.
Illusion Sleeves
Illusion sleeves are long or short, fitted, and made from sheer illusion tulle. You’ll often see them embellished with lace or embroidery. When the tulle matches the skin tone, it creates the illusion that the embellishment is floating on the skin as if by magic!
Anatomy of a Dress: Defining the Waistline
When it comes to the waistline, there are three points on the body where it can be defined: directly below the bust (empire), at the natural waistline, and anywhere below the waist to the hip is considered a dropped waist.
Design Tip: Depending on your body’s proportions, you may find one waistline better for you than others. For example, if you have a long torso, a natural waist may resemble an empire waist since it will sit higher than your natural waistline. So, you should consider a dropped waist to create the illusion of a natural waist dress.
The Shift Wedding Dress
You can also have no defined waistline, in which case you have a shift silhouette. This kind of silhouette is very retro (think 1960s). It’s a freeing, voluminous, and flowy style that flares from the neckline to the hem.
What is a Basque Waist?
While empire, natural, and dropped waist define the starting point of the wedding dress skirt or bridal jumpsuit pants, the shape of the waistline can also vary. A basque waist is a waistline that drops by several inches in the center into a V or a U shape. This creates an elongating effect on the bodice of the wedding dress.
Pair a basque waist with any strapless corset bodice or a bodice with straps. Additionally, basque waists are also seen on designs with a natural waist or a dropped waist, further elongating the bodice. With our customizable designs, you can reduce the length of the center drop to any amount less than two inches for a subtle, “baby” basque waist—as seen on our Belén style.
Anatomy of a Dress: Skirt Shapes
Skirt shapes define the bridal gown silhouette. Pair any skirt shapes with any of the necklines and waistlines to create subtle changes in the silhouette. Pairing any bodice with a pant style creates a bridal jumpsuit.
Ballgown Wedding Dress
A ballgown is what comes to mind when someone describes a wedding dress as “princessy poofy.” It is the most voluminous skirt shape. It is a dramatic and statement-making silhouette.
Design Tip: Not all ballgown wedding dresses will be heavy. The fabrics’ weights and construction underpinnings will determine that.
A-Line Wedding Dress
An a-line wedding dress is the ballgown’s smaller, scaled-down sister. It’s the perfect choice for a nearlywed who doesn’t want the restrictive feel of a fitted skirt or the full volume of a ballgown.
Mermaid Wedding Dress
A mermaid skirt is a form-fitting, sexy silhouette. It is fitted through the hip and thighs to just above the knee, where the skirt flares out. While most people think it is a skirt shape that is movement-restrictive, it is only restrictive based on how tight you make it around your thighs.
Design Tip: The looser it is around your thighs, the easier it will be to take steps and sit in a mermaid skirt.
Fit-and-Flare Wedding Dress
A fit-and-flare (or trumpet) skirt is the sister style of a mermaid skirt. However, the flare of the skirt starts higher up—usually between the hips and mid-thigh. This skirt shape shows off your figure, while allowing more freedom of movement.
Column Wedding Dress
A column skirt (also referred to as a sheath wedding dress) is a sleek, modern silhouette. It is the least voluminous of the skirt shapes. The fitted skirt of this silhouette creates a statuesque look with its clean lines.
Design Tip: Brides searching for that statuesque look without sacrificing the drama and volume of a ceremony gown can opt to pair a column wedding dress with a detachable overskirt. With this combination, you don’t lose the sleek silhouette of the column skirt, and you get a convertible two-in-one wedding dress.
(Bonus) Anatomy of a Bridal Jumpsuit: Pant Styles
Like wedding dresses, pair any bodice and neckline with different pant styles to create variations in design and silhouette.
Wide-Leg Bridal Jumpsuit
Wide-leg pants on a bridal jumpsuit can be short or long. The wider the leg, the more volume at the hem, which can sometimes create an optical illusion where the pants look like a skirt. Wide-leg pants are a great choice for a nearlywed who doesn’t want to feel restricted or who prefers looser-fitting clothing.
Design Tip: For a more tailored look (like a pair of trousers), wide-leg pants can be patterned and pressed to have a pleat.
Cigarette Pant Jumpsuit
Cigarette pants are a timeless style of tailored trousers popularized in the 1950s. The slim cut of the pant legs tapers ever so slightly to the hem, which hits anywhere from mid-calf to the ankle. This shorter hem allows you to show off your shoes. Plus, the slim cut creates a lengthening effect on the legs.
Design Tip: For a more tapered cut, a button closure at the hem allows you to get the jumpsuit on and off more easily.
Explore Our Customizable Wedding Dresses and Bridal Wear
Bring your wedding-day vision to life with our customizable bridal collections. Whether you’re working with one of our bridal boutique partners or directly with our designer, Lourdes, use this blog to describe your ideal design.
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